She glowed, the gown did not.

The gown Sophie Grégoire-Trudeau wore to Washington’s state dinner Wednesday night could have – and should have – been better.

In her highest profile appearance yet, Grégoire-Trudeau chose to wear a purple gown embroidered with orange and pink floral details by Lucian Matis.

It was underwhelming. The embroidered suspenders and belt were mere decoration, rather than interesting structure. It was a simple cap sleeve gown, a touch too covered up for the occasion. No, we didn’t expect to see Sophie in a deep plunging gown as is standard on the red carpets today, but even Michelle Obama wore a strapless gown by Jason Wu – raised in Vancouver – with a modern folded structure.

The Matis gown lacked drama and sophistication. And while Grégoire-Trudeau glows in just about anything she wears, this did not especially flatter her.

Surprisingly, Grégoire-Trudeau wore another dress by the Romanian-born Toronto-based designer during the day, a red crew neck with surprising fuchsia floral print insets. That was a dramatic dress, but perhaps just a bit much for daytime wear. And those lavish florals are a signature for Matis, and might have provided just the drama needed in a state dinner gown.

Duy’s travelling suit was a better choice for Grégoire-Trudeau, with its subtle sandy colour – she has often worn pale colours and they do flatter her. Of course, a suit is a tried and true uniform, a classic, without the variation and room for disaster that makes watching events like red carpets such a blood sport.

But to give credit where credit is due: Grégoire-Trudeau is putting the spotlight on Canadian design.

Vanessa Friedman in the New York Times called the dinner a catwalk for Canadian fashion. And Robin Givhan, in the Washington Post, wrote an article headlined “Yes, Canada has fashion designers, and the first ladies wore them to the state dinner.”

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Grégoire-Trudeau wore a dove grey suit custom designed for her by the couturier Duy, known for his impeccable craftsmanship.

The vivacious Grégoire-Trudeau has almost always promoted Canadian fashion design, but raised eyebrows (including mine) by wearing Oscar de la Renta – designer to New York society – in a Vogue editorial soon after her husband’s election.

It was Jessica Mulroney, wife of eTalk host Ben and a fashion “strategist”as she calls herself, who worked out a Canadian wardrobe for the visit, Duy said, contacting him in late December with the commission. They had worked together at Holt Renfrew 17 years ago.

She wanted an entire wardrobe, including the evening gown for tonight’s state dinner, he continued, but it didn’t work out because of time constraints, he said.

He wound up making two suits and shirts, and sending some samples. The one here is made of fine wool, with silk velvet details on the collar and cuffs, Duy said.

Prime Minister Justin Trudeau and Sophie arrive in Washington with Xavier, Ella-Grace and Hadrien. Sophie is wearing a wool suit by Duy.
PMO Photo by Adam Scotti.

He also made an outfit that she will wear for a coming event in Asia, which will also mark the 10th anniversary of their marriage.

Duy announced he was quitting fashion last year, but continues to dress such high profile clients as Isabelle Hudon, the Quebec Sun Life executive.

“I’m busier than ever,” he said, adding it’s difficult to handle all the orders because he doesn’t have access to enough quality seamstresses. “I want everything custom, from scratch.”

Meanwhile, all eyes are on Grégoire-Trudeau as dresses up a whirlwind on the three-day visit. For the arrival ceremony this morning, she wore a cheery red and pink dress by Lucian Matis.

Of particular interest: what she will wear to the state dinner Thursday evening.

Duy is betting Greta Constantine or Pink Tartan. Other possibilities: Wayne Clark, Marie Saint Pierre, Denis Gagnon,  Unttld … Let me know what your bets are.

Embed from Getty Images

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