Those were the moods at two back-to-back shows at different events to close out a week of fashion in Montreal.

Quelle semaine!

Fashion Preview, the showcase for emerging Quebec designers and fashion schools, took to the catwalk for its ninth edition Monday through Wednesday. On the final night, cult favourite Mark Antoine filled the Fashion Preview runway room to capacity – with the added draw of tattooed, dreadlocked diva Annie Sama providing the musical accompaniment. At almost the same time, the Quebec designers’ council held a swish show of 13 accomplished designers at the Bulles et Tapis Rouge gala of the Quebec Pulmonary Association.

Of course, champagne always makes fashion look better, but this was indeed lovely, set in the soaring, glassed Le Parquet hall of the Caisse de dépôt building at Place Jean-Paul Riopelle and orchestrated by Hans Koechling.

The holy trinity of Quebec design – Marie Saint Pierre, Philippe Dubuc and Denis Gagnon – were headliners at the gala show, where it was announced that the CCMQ – the Conseil des créateurs de mode du Québec – was relaunching Montreal Fashion Week. The trinity was augmented by a strong regiment of designers, including Lamarque, the leather specialist; menswear lines Nico Design, Xian and Finezza, Au Nom de L’Homme; Oneself, whose debut at Fashion Preview last season stood out in the crowd; Antonio Ortega Couture; and a luscious new discovery, Claire Lemaître-Auger. Let it be noted that the male ballgown by Antonio Ortega was a divine fit.

The show ended, as expected, after 9, while Mark Antoine was skedded to start at 8:45 p.m. (which nobody believed would happen) so a few of us hightailed it to the Agora at UQAM’s Coeur des sciences to catch the cult designer’s showing of punky plaids and funky fleeces.

Annie Sama at Mark Antoine.

Mark Antoine. Tora Photography for Fashion Preview.

Mark Antoine. Tora Photography for Fashion Preview

The atmosphere at the two shows could not have been any more different. But that’s fashion for you.

What really stood out this season at Fashion Preview were the fashion schools – from Cegep Marie-Victorin, UQAM’s École supérieure de mode, and LaSalle College. The students were in full fashion-student mode, meaning letting their imaginations fly and ignoring any call to real dressing – which may well have been their teachers’ assignment. Marie-Victorin was the most practical of the lot, with sweats and parachute stylings, while many ESM students worked with wild textures: cotton candy stuffing, woolly wiggles with teats, and a dress of organza pastel sleeves stood out. But it was the LaSalle project – a beauty pageant based on the signs of the zodiac – that provided the most amusement and a recollection of John Galliano shows gone by.

A few collections of note at Fashion Preview: Diego Montefusco put his custom men’s shoes on a platter for showing: the colours and patina were impressive. And Velvet Couture had some cute ready for market streetwear.

Velvet Couture

Bespoke shoes by Diego Montefusco.

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Mark Antoine’s was at least the third collection that referenced a dystopian society. It began with the students of LaSalle College, directed by their superbly creative teacher, Milan Tanedjikov. Their opening show at the three-day event, titled Lines of Flight, featured purple or masked faces, ragged and ripped fabric, twists, fuzz and humps, layers and volume – all pointing to the influence of Rei Kawakubo, Rick Owens, and perhaps a touch of John Galliano.

No matter: in journalism, Norah Ephron said, “Everything is copy.” In fashion, everything is copied. The point is that the students were creative – and with a coherent message and point of view.

 

V-Franz Bernil, in another outstanding show, also delved into that dark vision. A series of plaids and pinstripes, very well done but quite reminiscent of the late Alexander McQueen, started the show. Footwear was wrapped in garbage bags or clear cellophane. Call me a prude, but the two exits with bared breasts didn’t enhance the collection. Where the designer excels is in sexy, bare evening wear, and this season he did his best yet, rendered in green lavish embroidery or nude embroidered net.

Frrom V-Franz Bernil, plaids, pinstripes and fabulous embroideries.

On quite another, more serene vein was Leinad Beaudet, with a  small collection titled Outremont ma chère. The designer always has an austere look, with accomplished draping and volume. His closing piece was a showstopper dress in blush sequins with raw edges, draped shoulders and an easy shape. Would love to see variations of that dress – shorter, perhaps, or with an alluring open cowl back. But this is Leinad – and that’s the way he rumbles. Cute touch: mismatched bindings on shoes.

Earlier, couturier Helmer, in top form, chose to show menswear only. His dandies sported oversize stripes and plaids, denim and one flashy scarlet ensemble of greatcoat, blazer and plaid pants. A street-inspired look gave the theme away: emblazoned on pants was the word “zazou,” referencing the garish, oversize look of a Second World War French subculture. Take the extreme styling away, however, and there was some very nice, wearable tailoring in soft beige-blue plaids, for instance.

Helmer’s oversize statement.

Fashion Preview, which was held at UQAM’s Agora, was conceived as an alternative showcase for the new generation of emerging designers. In its early days, there were creative installations, which became unwieldy to set up, and meant long waits between shows. It has moved to traditional runway, and this season, the shows ran like clockwork, quite the accomplishment.

In its mission to showcase young talent, each evening opened with presentations from the fashion schools – and they were impressive. The fur work from Marie-Victorin students was beautifully crafted and conceived. Loved the winter white theme.

Fur work from students of Cegep Marie-Victorin.

A small coterie of contemporary brands also showed, with well-done collections from Naïké, KQK, Coquette en soie and Robert Atelier.

With the traditional runway, established venue and good organization, what’s needed is for a few of the big fashion design labels to take to the runway, attracting buzz, buyers and media to Montreal fashion.

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