Playa imperfecto: Isla Mujeres beach offers splendid swimming. Chaotic town has hidden gems

I called them the leatherbacks, a couple in their late 70s, maybe 80s, who hit Playa Norte on Isla Mujeres every afternoon with paperback books. They spread a blanket by the water on the bustling beach, in front of the rows of loungers and parasols. He wore a plaid shirt to ward of the sun, [...]